Delhi

The sound and light show (₹80) in the evening is atmospheric but slow-paced. The real magic is walking through the Diwan-i-Am and Diwan-i-Khas at opening time when it's nearly empty.

Most tourists only see the main tower. Walk around the back to find the unfinished Alai Minar — Alauddin Khilji's abandoned attempt to build a tower twice the size.

Visit the nearby Nizamuddin Dargah afterwards for qawwali on Thursday evenings — one of Delhi's most mesmerizing experiences. The tomb gardens are also stunning during spring bloom.

Start from the Red Fort end and walk through specific gallis — Paranthe Wali Gali for paranthas, Dariba Kalan for silver, Khari Baoli for the largest spice market in Asia.

The minaret climb is steep and narrow but the 360-degree view of Old Delhi is unmatched. Remove shoes and dress conservatively. The kebab shops in the lane behind the mosque (towards Gate 1) are the best in Delhi.

Walk the full stretch from India Gate to Rashtrapati Bhavan (President's House) for the full imperial vista. The surrounding lawns are great for a picnic — buy kulfi from the vendors.

Skip the overpriced cafes on the main drag and find Mia Bella or Social for better value. The ruins at sunset are magical — most tourists leave by 5 PM so you'll have them to yourself.

Enter from the Lodhi Road gate for the best approach to Bara Gumbad and Sheesh Gumbad. Weekday mornings are peaceful; weekends see yoga groups and families.

No electronics allowed inside — leave phones and cameras at the locker facility (free). The fountain show is spectacular and included in the entry. Go on weekdays to avoid hour-long queues.

Every Thursday evening, Sufi qawwali singers perform devotional music at the 14th-century shrine of Hazrat Nizamuddin Auliya. The atmosphere — candles, incense, passionate singing — is electrifying and deeply spiritual.

Dress modestly, cover your head (scarves available at the entrance), and sit quietly. The session lasts 1-2 hours. Visit Ghalib's tomb nearby before the qawwali starts.

A dramatic 60-metre long 14th-century stepwell hidden among Connaught Place's office buildings. Three levels of arched galleries descend into darkness — atmospheric, photogenic, and surprisingly uncrowded.

The stepped design creates dramatic shadow patterns in the afternoon. Combine with nearby Jantar Mantar (Mughal-era astronomical instruments).

A sprawling complex of 440+ heritage structures spanning 1,000 years — tombs, mosques, stepwells, and walls from the Slave Dynasty to the British era. Almost never crowded despite being next to Qutub Minar.

Hire a local guide at the Qutub Minar entrance who knows the park — most of the structures are unlabelled and you'll miss the stories without one. Balban's tomb has the oldest true arch in India.

A Tibetan refugee colony on the banks of the Yamuna, packed with authentic Tibetan restaurants, Buddhist monasteries, and shops selling thangkas, prayer wheels, and Tibetan handicrafts. Feels like a different country.

Try thukpa and momos at Ama Restaurant or AMA Cafe (rooftop). The monastery at the back is peaceful and welcoming to visitors.

A beautifully restored 90-acre heritage park with six Mughal-era monuments, manicured gardens, lotus ponds, and 300 tree species. Right next to Humayun's Tomb but completely off the tourist radar.

The combined ticket with Humayun's Tomb saves money. The restored Arab Serai inside is stunning. Weekend mornings have nature walks led by volunteers.

Available only in winter (November-February), this ethereal sweet is made from milk foam collected overnight and served on leaf plates with saffron and nuts. It literally melts in seconds — Delhi's most ephemeral food experience.

The best vendors are between Paranthe Wali Gali and the Red Fort. This cannot be stored or replicated — you must eat it within seconds of it being served.

The original Karim's is the one in the narrow lane behind Jama Masjid's Gate 1 — don't go to the tourist branch elsewhere. Their breakfast nihari (slow-cooked stew) served from 6 AM is a life-changing experience.

The original three shops — Pandit Gaya Prasad Shiv Charan, Pandit Kanhaiya Lal Durga Prasad, and Pandit Baburam Devi Dayal — have been here since the 1870s. Avoid newer stalls in the lane that trade on the name.

This is where butter chicken and dal makhani were invented in the 1950s by Kundan Lal Gujral. The Daryaganj original is the only authentic one — the chain restaurants under the same name are unrelated.

Operating since 1940, their dahi bhalle is considered the gold standard in Delhi. The secret is in the tamarind chutney — a recipe unchanged for 80+ years. Queue is always long but moves fast.

Consistently ranked among Asia's best restaurants. The tasting menu is the way to go. Book at least a week ahead — walk-ins are nearly impossible. Their daulat ki chaat dessert is a modernist take on Old Delhi's winter street sweet.

Right across from Karim's but without the tourist crowds and with equally good (some say better) food. Their nihari at breakfast is extraordinary — arrive by 7 AM before it sells out.

Bengali Market's cluster of chaat and chole bhature shops is a Delhi institution. Bikanervala and Nathu's here serve the benchmark versions. Go hungry — you'll want to try everything.

Serves only one dish — chole bhature — and has been doing so since 1955. The bhatura is perfectly puffed and the chole have a distinctive dark, tangy flavour from extended slow cooking. Sells out by afternoon.

• The metro tourist card is the best deal in Delhi — covers unlimited rides for 1-3 days
• Free entry to most monuments on the first Sunday of every month (ASI sites)
• Eat where the auto drivers eat — Chandni Chowk and Paharganj have the cheapest, most authentic food

• Stay in South Delhi (Hauz Khas, Saket, or Defence Colony) for the best cafe and restaurant scene
• Combo tickets for Humayun's Tomb + Sunder Nursery save money and time
• Lunch thalis at restaurants in Khan Market are excellent value — ₹300-500 for a full meal

• The Imperial Hotel is a destination in itself — colonial grandeur, art collection, and the 1911 restaurant
• Book Bukhara at ITC Maurya 3-4 days ahead — the dal Bukhara is legendary and they give you a bib instead of cutlery
• Hire a heritage walk guide for Mehrauli or Shahjahanabad — ₹3,000-6,000 for private tours that unlock doors regular tourists can't enter